No matter where you shop starting this coming June, be it Bergdorf’s, Barneys, Bloomingdale’s, Saks, Forever 21, H&M or Macy’s, all eyes are on the European collections. What is seen here will either be bought as it is shown or will be reinterpreted to meet a price that suits the clientele of each particular store. Looks, trends and silhouettes are determined on a “per store” basis.
Well it was back to the 70’s one more time at the house of St. Laurent. It seems to be inescapable these days and where better than at St. Laurent where dear Yves was at the height of his powers in so many ways.
Mr. Pilati, another name on everyone’s lips this week for the same reason as Mr. Tisci, decided to take a more literal journey with the hallmarks of the tailored side of the house and then at the end with some truly signature moments in starkly blinding white.
There was the rigorous tailoring and the hard edge that St. Laurent did so well but what is missing is the polish that St. Laurent gave us show after show regardless of what your opinion was of the clothes. Maybe the clothes have lost their grace and maybe the clothes suffer with a less than perfect presentation without hose and with shoes that needed to be lighter as not to draw your eye down to their weighty look. Could it be that the color palettes of every show were indicative of a mood, the inspiration or a theme which again, regardless of the clothes, gave us a visual feast .
Yes, speaking of shoes, the shoes that Mr. Pilati must fill are possibly the hugest of all filled with a heritage and adoration level that cannot be matched on a personal or professional level. Mr. Pilati, it seems, wants to reference the past but in trying not to take it too literally, he diffuses the intention or maybe, just maybe, Yves occupies this place of idol worship that can never be equaled or rivaled by any mere mortal ever again.
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